When performing a skincare assessment, we consider all aspects of your skin as well as your overall health, current skincare routine and lifestyle, this allows us to create an individualised treatment regime for you. Whether you want topical (on the surface) skincare or treatments which breach the skin’s surface such as injectable skin boosters – or both!

-Remember, improving your skin’s health is a journey that requires time and commitment –

Read on to fine out more about skin assessment ……

The physical attributes that we assess can be divided into three categories: which are visual, mechanical, and topographical according to Humphrey et.al (2021). These three areas cover the main indications for cosmeceutical (active skincare) intervention, and include the following:-

  • Ageing:- including wrinkles & lines & volume loss
  • Sun damage:- including discoloration
  • Areas of oily or dryness and/or flakiness
  • Skin sensitivity
  • Levels of hydration
  • Pigmentation (colouring)
  • Inflammation
  • Open pores
  • Skin turgor (strength & elasticity) (Humphrey, et al., 2021)

These categories are not exclusive and can overlap. For example, scar tissue would fall into all three domains, as it is, visible, palpable (present to touch) and affects how the skin moves. There is skin analysis software in development which has been shown to be effective in assessment of key characteristics of skin quality such as erythema (redness), wrinkles and oiliness (Cook, et al., 2022). This technology will allow clinicians’ and patients to objectively measure the success of skincare routine.

In addition to what we can see on the outside, we also consider and discuss those environmental & lifestyle factors which can impact on skin quality. Such  as: – your current skincare routine, lifestyle, diet, environment, overall health and current medication, sleep pattern, and even your occupation all play a part in yours skins health (Boo, 2022).

As you would imagine, an individual’s genotype (inherited genetic make-up) is the foundation of cellular construction. However, phenotype is more pertinent in skin assessment. Phenotype considers the observable expression, namely, the physical presentation, of genes and how they have been affected by external environmental factors as mentioned above. (Guinan, 2022; Garvan Institute of Medical Research, 2021). 

There are many skin-typing system used in cosmetic dermatology, here are a few, listed below-

The Fitzpatrick Scale 

Corresponds with the tanning response of the skin to UV light (sun exposure) and estimates the skins ability to produce melanin.

  • Type I -Very fair skin & burns instantly in the sun
  • Type II- Fair skin, burns easily & tans poorly
  • Type III- Medium white to olive skin, sometimes burns but usually tans
  • Type IV- Olive/brown skin, rarely burns & always tans
  • Type V- Brown skin, never burns & always tans
  • Type VI – Black skin, never burns & always tans (Fitzpatrick 1975).

There are several wrinkle classification systems available, including the Merz scale which allow standardised classification of wrinkles in the upper, mid & lower face as well as hands and neck. The scale runs form 0 – no wrinkles, to 4- only wrinkles, this is useful when clarifying with the patient a starting point and defining the effects of treatment (Carruthers & Carruthers, 2010).

The Gogau scale

Glogau Wrinkle Scale | Dr. Richard Glogau is used to assess and classify skin into one of four groups according to clinical signs of photoaging (sun damage) and presence of wrinkles (Glogau, 1996). The prevalent sign of increased sun exposure in the ageing face is the presence of lentigines, actinic and seborrheic keratosis, freckles and fine line & wrinkles which is a result of ultraviolent radiation breaking down components of the skin (Haney, 2020).

The Snap Test 

A simple test used to measure skin elasticity (laxity), it is done by pinching the skin below the eye with the forefinger and thumb and seeing how quickly (or slowly) it ‘snaps’ back to its original state. The longer it takes indicates there is lower elasticity than that of someone who’s skin snaps back almost immediately (Tamatam, 2020).

However, as with all standardised protocols, they are to be used as guide only, and are only as accurate as the person performing the assessment. Some of these listed above have been criticised as subjective and not reliable in mixed race and ethnic skin (Roberts, 2009).  It is important you consult a qualified practitioner before using medical-grade skincare.

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